I wanted to go to Belzec (pronounced Biwzhets) because no one really does. I felt that as many as a million Jews died there in the space of nine months – and hardly anyone even knows about it. It was a pilgrimage to a holy site: the second largest (after Treblinka) Jewish graveyard in history.
Mike Tregenza was my guide. He is a non-Jewish, English historian who lectures at Lublin university. According to Sir Martin Gilbert, he is the world expert on Belzec.